“There is no passion to be found playing small – in settling for a life that is less than the one you are capable of living.” -Nelson Mandela
Firstly, I should start with a little context since South Africa isn’t usually very high up on the kiwi to-visit bucket list. Mikey moo was born in a little town in South Africa and was South African at birth. His family replicated to Dunedin, New Zealand when he was 6 months old. The rest is history, but some of his extended family still live there and the whole clan are now spread all over the globe: USA, UK, NZ, SA. This is great for travelling, and even greater is that there’s a family reunion every 3 years where the whole tribe meets somewhere in the world over christmas/new years for a reunion.
And this time (for 2017/2018) it was South Africa.
We had the pleasure of having the longest Christmas Day in History. Leaving Christchurch, New Zealand at 6am and arriving in Cape Town, South Africa at 8:30pm. And here are the pics to prove it:
Unfortunately it only ended up being a small trip due to issues with visa processes. But, it was just enough to get a taste and to want to go back for more exploring I a country I had never really thought about going to before.
I didn’t take as many photos as I normally would on holiday as there were so many people taking photos and I decided instead to try and relax and enjoy. (This was after all my decent holiday of 2017/2018 summer and as a social worker I need all the rest I can get when I can. I was also feeling very, how to put it, blobby, after putting on 20kg in 2 years since graduating/ being married. I’m working on that in 2018. Which er might talk about later).
Anyway. Here are the highlights:
HERMANUS
Rock climbing at The Crags, Kleinmond
A half hour drive from Hermanus, a group of us climbed up the Crags in order to go rock climbing. I myself, just enjoyed the view as I’m deathly afraid of heights and climbing is something I avoid at all costs (especially given my current state of fitness). Even without climbing it was a good walk, steep in parts, with lose gravel that can slide underfoot, but an excellent outing for those who love to be outside and moving on holiday (like yours truly).
I walked up the Crags in jandles (flip-flops in non-kiwi speak) which I would not recommend. And a member of the group lost one of their Birkenstocks down a crack in the rocks, which luckily was salvageable. My point here is, take appropriate footwear. And lots and lots of water.
There were amazing views of Kleinmond Beach and the South Atlantic Ocean beyond. in the photo second from the bottom in this little section you can spot the river flowing where we later went ‘wild swimming’ as it was lovingly referred to. The climbing looked just as good as the view with grad 16-20 climbs (i think). As a wannabe Botanist (yes, I have a botany degree, no I don’t remember what species of plant that is), this area was amazing! All of my studies in African botanical wonders came flooding back and I was in awe of all the trees, flowers and grasses we saw this day.
This is also the area where there is the infamous “Betty’s Bay” where you can go to see the penguins. We went somewhere else in Cape Town, more on that later.
Learning to surf at Grotto Beach
Mikey and I had decided before we left for South Africa that we would purchase surf boards for each others Christmas present, given that we live 200m from a great little surfing beach for beginnings (we still haven’t brought them yet, but we did by season passes to the ski-fields 2 hours away! So the surfboards might be for our birthdays this year so we can surf next summer.) Anyway, needless to say we were THRILLED when we heard that the optional family activity for the second day (the first being rock climbing) was surf lessons at the beach!
An hours lesson and board+sweatsuit hire cost roughly 25 New Zealand Dollars (the price of a meal and a coffee cafe back home) for the both of us. BAR-GAIN!
The white sands, the mountain back drop and the cold South Atlantic ocean (plus my husband and a band of his brothers all in pink rash shirts)made for a very memorable lesson and my first experience surfing as adult. By the end of the hour I was so tired a brother-in-law had to carry my board back for me (which in my defense was so difficult partly because my arms were to short to hold the board! Which was, needless to say, disappointing and a took away from the cool-factor of the whole experience).
Needless to say we went back another day, this time for boggy boarding, ice-blocks and reading in the sun.
The cliff walk in Hermanus.
Just a short stroll in the afternoon around the cliffs of Hermanus on the aptly named ‘Cliff Path.’ This path stretches 12km and you can walk all the way from New Harbour to Grotto Beach (pictured above surfing). Hermanus is famous for whale watching in the spring months (sadly, no whales when were were there) and they can be spotted all along this walk. There are signs every couple hundred meters telling you about various fauna, whales, other sea creatures and the history of the area. There are places to swim dotted along the path if you just walk down to the ocean, including an awesome rock pool pictured in the bottom photo (but don’t walk on the sides as we watched someone be collected by an wave and it looked rather painful and embarrassing!)
After a nice little stroll we had lunch at Bientangs Cave Restaurant and Winery, set in to the cliffs. The food was delicious, very affordable fancy food for an international traveler, and we ordered a 2.5L pitcher of beer with a tap for the table, which was amazing. During whale season this would be THE spot to be for lunch, or dinner. But book ahead as it was very hard to get a table!
Other honorable mentions in the Hermanus cliff food scene go to the cafe with the lemon wallpaper and to die for coffee milkshakes, as well as the little food place across the road from there, with the best burgers ever.
“Wild swimming” in Palmietrivier
At the Palmiet Rock Pools. Cliff jumping (or off the bridge if you dare). Cold mountain water.
Need I say more?
We were here for hours.
Staying at Volmoed Retreat
This was probably the best part of the trip, if I’m honest, and you’ll see why when you scroll through the photos. Volmoed is a Christian retreat, of which Desmond Tutu (world renowned South African Anglican Clerk and theologian, famous for his anti-apartheid and human rights activism) is a member of the trust and stayed only months before we did. There’s a chapel, Lilly ponds, a braai (BBQ) area, free wine tasting just down the road at a local vineyard, beautiful gardens and even a WATERFALL!
Legend has it there’s a leopard in the mountains surrounding the retreat, eating their baby goats, so maybe don’t venture out at night (leopards are nocturnal). There are so many walking tracks on the retreat, which is 130 hectares big! Not-so legendary is the history of the waterfall, which used to be much deeper until a storm washed rocks in to the pool. couple people drowned here in its deeper-days (the owner tells us the navy dive squad counted 30 feet deep!) but it is now safe to swim in.
Many a peaceful day and evening was had here, accommodating the 50 plus family members, with enough space to cook for each other, eat together, and for presentations on family and personal history (much much enjoyed by myself, a newcomer to the clan). I would highly highly recommend this place, if you want a relaxing and joyous holiday.The first picture is taken out the window of mine and Mikey’s bedroom. also see little creatures (a frog and camouflaged lizard) and a selection of beautiful flowers from the garden (unlike Cape Town there was no shortage of water here!)
CAPE TOWN
Climbing Table Mountain
A must have on any travelers list when visiting Cape Town. Standing tall (or should I say flat) at 1,085m high, Table Mountain is the most prominent landmark in the city, unmistakably perched looking over the cape and the sea.
In the evening clouds roll off the flat top, which the locals call ‘the table cloth.’ You can see this phenomenon pictured below. I tried to get it on film, but just could’t quiet capture the magic of the clouds rolling over the side of the cliff and vanishing like wisps of smoke.
For the fitter traveler, I would highly recommend earning the view by hiking up the ( mountain. Mikey and I the rode the cableway back down. Walking down actually took the rest of our group longer than the way up, just due to the steepness. I’m not going to lie, it was pretty hard going and was a track of relentless large steps.
The cableway is a pretty reasonable price, and is an experience in itself. You do wait in the longest line I’ve ever seen in my life, but it moves quickly as 40 odd people ride at once. We just brought some soda and wine from the cafe up top to pass the time. We also ‘oooh’d and ‘aaaah’d over the cute little dassies (aka rock hyrax) sunbathing on the cliffs. (fun fact, the closest relative to the dassie is the elephant, even though they look more like meerkat/bunnies) The cableway spins slowly as it goes, so no matter where you are you’re guaranteed a good view at some point. Which is awesome.
But weather you walk or cableway, I would highly recommend making sure you are up the top for sun set, to watch the golden rays light up the entire city and expanse of ocean and see the twinkling lights of the city flicker on in the dusky haze that settles over the city before those golden beams arrive.
Check out the photos below.T hat first one, we had just reached the top, it took us little under 2 hours, so forgive the tired eyes. after that is pictures from the climb up, and then more of the top, and the cableway down.
Wine tasting at Babylonstoren
Babylonstoren is a vineyard/restaurant/garden/little slice of heaven that dates back to 1692! There’s so so much to see and do here, that all I can say is GO! (and stay the night in their barn hotel if you can) Mikes brother and his wife had this high up on their foodie Cape Town to-do list, and it did not disappoint. Below you will see just a selection of pics I took of the vege patches (and honestly, I could have taken a million more) Hopefully one day our vege patch (which, is growing a good variety of fruits and veges and edible flowers) will be recognizably inspired by this beautiful 3.5 hectare paradise.
FYI, the pear in the jar? They’re called ‘captive pears’ and you can spot them all over several pear trees, if your looking closely. They are put in there when the are small, and then grow to maturity inside the glass. Babylonstoren then makes pear brandy! Sign me up for that please!
Aquila Safari and the drive there
One the drive to the safari we stopped at a little french village called Franschhoek, where the air was scented with soft wisps of lavender, the streets were lined with a french inspired shops, and the Huguenot monument stands a tall and proud non to the areas culture.
After this, we went to visit Nelson Mandela (well, a giant bronze version) at Drakenstein Correctional Centre (formerly Victor Verster Prison) where Mr Mandela walked into his freedom, hand held high. (note his shoes, which are the classic color brown, my favorite feature of the statue)
The safari itself was AMAZING. The zebra’s were my favorite, especially the baby with the Mohawk mane. Usually my fav is the beautiful elephant (well, giraffe but they aren’t one of the ‘big 5’ so i’ll have to go on a special Africa trip another time especially to see one!) but we only saw their briefly. We also saw water buffalo, lions, rhino, hippo and springbok.
The pictures really do speak for themselves.
Spotting Penguins at Boulder Bay, Simon’s Town
African penguins (aka Jackass penguins, because they make a donkey-like bray sound) spotted at Boulder Bay. This was the one thing that I really wanted to do/see while in South Africa (bit odd I know), and it was just as amazing as I thought it would be.
Those beady little eyes poking out through the bush is a momma on her nest. She cocked her head side to side as I inspected her, mimicking my actions, while only about 20cm away.
Our last day spent exploring Cape Town highlights and climbing Lion’s Head
On our last day in Cape Town, and in South Africa, the boys all decided they wanted to watch a ODI cricket game. Knowing that there was still heaps to do, Hannah (now our soon to be sister in law) and I decided to hit the sites, and to do so just the two of us, using public transport. Which we navigated very successfully. This was probably my favourite day of the whole trip, ticking off things to see, eating yummo food and summit-ting our second mountain peak during the first week of 2018: Lions Head Peak.
Here’s the highlight reel of what we did that day: Parliament Square, Company Gardens, Steam Punk ice coffee at Truth Cafe, Castle of Goodhope, ‘the waterfront’, Gelato at Camps Bay, Climbed Lions Head, Drinks/dinner at Mustachios.
The last two pictures is of the place we stayed, and the view out our window at cape town. <3
Happy travels wanderer
xx Moochelle