Track Facts:
- 40mins (plus exploring time)
- 3km loop
- Easy walk with some steep sections
- Decent footwear required
- Kid friendly
- No dogs
- Bio security check required one arrival
- Cost: price of ferry ticket. $25 (adult) $13 (child) return to and from Days Bay or Queens Wharf
- You can camp on the island at the campsite OR book in advance and stay at a completely-off-grid little cabin, with solar hot water. I can’t even imagine how beautiful sunsets/sunrise would be from the island!
Getting there
Matiu / Somme’s Island is likely one of those places that you’ve either meant to go for awhile but haven’t found/made the time (like my 70-year-young neighbour who told me she’d been meaning to go for “many decades” while we chatted over the fence about our weekend plans)
OR
It’s never really occurred to you, but maybe the island itself has caught your eye as you’ve driven along the motorway between Wellington and the Hutt Valley.
In either case, it’s definitely time to go and it’s 200% worth the effort.
Anyway. To get there. From Wellington: catch the East by West ferry from either Queens Wharf (near Wellington central train station-definitely walking distance if you’ve caught the train to Wellington for a day trip) or Days Bay (which is in the bay between Petone and Eastbourne). The ferry goes pretty regularly. Check the timetable and fares here.
Just a side note: there is an awesome little kayak / SUPP hire place at Days Bay, which you could factor in to your day trip (along with a swim and some wharf diving with the locals).
The Walk
When you arrive at the island you will be welcomed by a ranger who will give you an overview of the island, it’s history, interesting places to visit, wildlife you might spot that day, and everything you need to know while on the island. Because the island is a predator free scenic reserve you will need to do a bio-security check of your shoes and bag (for seeds, ants, rats, etc) and brush/disinfect your shoes (equipment provided).
There are a number of paths on the island and you could spend some time walking them all. For a super easy option you could just walk the short walk on the coast (and spot many sea birds and even maybe some seals or penguins).
The hike we did was a mini circuit of the island and included the quarantine station, viewing points out to Wellington City, the lighthouse, a weta motel and hun embarkment. I’ve gone into more detail for each of these sights further down if you’re interested. The beginning was pretty steep, but once you were up at the height of the info centre the track was pretty flat for the rest of the walk. So don’t be discouraged by the start!
Oh our way back towards the ferry terminal we spotted our ferry coming across the harbour and had to race back. And because it was the last one of the day (unless we rang for special treatment and waited another hour) we unfortunately missed some sights we had intended to go to if we had time.
On the walk you can spot a large variety of birds and wildlife including tuatara, weta, skinks and geckos.
Missed sites to explore next time are: the memorial to those buried on the island, the memorial to the Italian la held there during the world wars, the site of Te Moana a Kura pa fortifications (from the 16th century) and the coastal walk. Definitely enough to justify another trip when we have half a day spare in Wellington.
History
Matiu (which is the Māori transliteration for the name Matthew) was so named by Kupe, a legendary early māori figure and explorer, around 1000 years ago in the 10th century AD. European settlers named it Some’s island after the Deputy General of the New Zealand Company Joseph Some. It is now one of the many places in New Zealand where both the Māori and English names are legally recognised (and it is often referred to as Matiu-Some’s).
It’s unique location has seen the island be utilised as a location for the first inner-harbour lighthouse, both human and animal quarantine stations, a military defence position and internment camp (which I’m pretty sure just means concentration camp).
During WW I the island was used to hold 300 prisoners who were deemed “enemy aliens” and a threat to New Zealand security. Mostly these were German nationals, including those who were born in New Zealand, and lived and worked here.
In WW II the island was also used to house prisoners, mostly German but also Japanese and Italian. Although it’s recorded that some “internees” attempted to escape by swimming or stealing a boat, there are no successful escape stories. Which is unsurprising given the 3.2km distance to shore (which the Petone swim club races every year!).
During war time the island was also a strategic military defence location (which I will go in to more detail below)
The island opened to the public in 1995. You can still see lots of the buildings that were used in war time, and there is really good information on boards around the island at points of interest.
Lighthouse
Ok, so I have a not so secret love for lighthouses. I think I’ll start a “New Zealand lighthouse” series. I’ve got a few more on the list to visit (and even more to re-visit). Anyway. This lighthouse is pretty unique in that it is in the middle of the harbour.
This lighthouse was erected in 1865, and shone light for the first time in 1866. This was after the Wellington council decided to build the first Wellington harbour lighthouse, Pencarrow lighthouse, in 1859 in response to a number of boating accidents in the harbour. Pencarrow lighthouse wasn’t enough for the rugged and extensive coastline, so Matiu-Some’s became home to the second Wellington-harbour lighthouse. (There are now also lighthouses at Cape Palliser, Baring Head and a few other smaller ones around the place)
Along with the lighthouse there was originally a 6-room bedroom house built for the lighthouse keeper. Lighthouse keepers lived on the island, tending to the lighthouse and watching for ships in distress in the harbour, from 1866 until 1924 when the lighthouse was automated.
In 1900 a new lighthouse was built after concerns were raised the initial lighthouse wasn’t bright enough. The new lighthouse was a big improvement, with the light being able to be seen in Cook Straight, up to 16miles away. The original lighthouse was moved to Jack’s Point in Timaru, where it has remained to this day. Let me know if you ever visit it! It is definitely on my list to visit the next time I’m down that way!
Weta Motel
The Weta Motel was a bug lovers dream. For me, not so much, but it was still really interesting!! Basically, it was a wooden branch that you could open up and see weta hanging out inside (from behind plastic windows). It’s well signposted with DOCs classic orange triangle markers. Just flick the latch and open it up to have a look!
Gun Embankment
Gun embankments are always fun to visit. These ones are at the summit of the island, and there are 360° views of the Wellington harbour, which I guess is great for a strategic defence location. There’s not really much to say about this but here are some pics:
Xx
Happy exploring
Moochelle